1. FOOD.
The food in the south of Italy does not even compare to other regions. The further down you go, the better the food. Pizza is REAL pizza - thin enough crust to fold in half, lightly covered in pomodoro Napolitana (napoli sauce) and a generous sprinkling of basil - cue dribble. Delicious, creamy Mozzarella di Bufala, or buffalo mozzarella, is made in Naples and used in almost every dish. You can smell the stuff driving through the fields of buffalo. The pastries are the best I have ever tasted. Baba (a soft doughy like pastry SOAKED in rum) tastes as good as it probably is bad for you, Sfogliatella (a soft or crunchy pastry filled with sweetened ricotta) goes perfectly with a freshly made espresso, and Pastiera, which is traditionally eaten at Easter and is filled with a mixture of ricotta and candied fruit.
2. POMPEII/ERCOLANO RUINS.
On the outskirts of Naples lies what I think is one of the most amazing wonders in the world. The ruins of Pompeii and the lesser known Ercolano are cities frozen in time after the eruption of Vesuvius in 79AD. The streets, the houses, and the temples are as they were way back when, and it is an amazing experience just to be walking through them. To simply call them ruins does not convey their enormity; they are whole cities, complete with floor tiling in the houses, frescoes painted on the walls and Roman graffiti adorning the space of what used to be traders and bakeries. Leave aside at least one day to discover these mind blowing sites.
3. PEOPLE.
Speak one word of Neapolitan dialect and the locals will treat you like la famiglia! Loud and proud, the Neapolitans are the most welcoming, warm and friendly people and will try their utmost to make you feel as comfortable as possible. Despite the troubles that have plagued the city for a long while now (pretty much all stemming from the Camorra), the Neapolitans are incredibly optimistic and happy folk and will tell anyone who will listen how they are lucky to be living in the best part of Italy. The main aims of Neopolitans (mainly the older folk) include, but are not limited to, force feeding you mozzarella and salami, insisting on finding you a husband/wife before you leave, never letting your glass of vino go empty, and telling you you are "too small, eat more!".
4. SHOPPING.
Hidden away in the back lanes of Naples are only the most expensive and famous boutiques concentrated on via Calabritto: Prada, Valentino, Cartier, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Versace, and Cacharel to name a few. The contrast of old Napoli and super expensive fashion is fantastic. The 'poash' of Naples swarm around this area called Chiaia. Then there is Via Toledo, the main street of Naples which is literally crowded with pasticcerias, cafes, many shoe, souvenir and leather shops, and the great European clothing store Zara. You name it, via Toledo has it!Then there is Piazza Dante, a haven for book lovers with store upon store crammed with new and used books, a real student haunt this area.
(right Piazza del Plebiscito at the end of via Toledo)
5. SCOOTERS.
A fun way to see Naples, from coast to historic centre. The city is full of them humming all over. Beware though, road rules are basically non-existent in any part of Italy and Naples is definatley no exception. Scooters will whip and weave all over the road to get themselves out of congested traffic or around crowds. Helmets should be worn by law, though no one does; but if you're scootering around Naples for the first time not wearing one is a death wish! Hoping I haven't scared you now, mounting a scooter to see the city is a thrill and you never feel more like a local than weaving in and out of traffic yourself. The drive along the coast, with Castel dell'Ovo towering over, is especially beautiful, and getting lost in the laneways around Spaccanapoli is just magic.
6. COFFEE.
Did someone say the best in the world? Absolutely! The most local way to enjoy a coffee, or rather an espresso, is to down it while standing at the bar inside the cafè. The flavor is perfect, sweet, smooth and robust, just how good coffee should be (yes they sugar the espresso for you without asking, beware non-sugarers!). Caffè latte or cappuccino is only really enjoyed for breakfast, if that. Espresso is the go, and you will get funny looks if ordering latte, cappuccino or 'cafè americano' from midday onwards. The best place for espresso and complementing pastry? Gambrinus, standing in the same spot on via Toldeo right beside Piazza del Plebiscito since the 1800s. Its opulent, plush interior is a little sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of the busy streets surrounding it.
7. WEATHER.
Summer is REAL summer in Naples. You will never be too hot long as you spend all your time at the beach, and in the evening enjoy the many beach dance parties popping up in coastal spots such as nearby Sorrento. A great time to see Naples is August to October. The weather in October, although technically not summer, is extremely mild and pleasant; probably the best time to laze about the beaches if you are prone to turning a shade of lobster.
8. THE COAST.
Just a relatively short drive from Naples takes you to the jewel that is the Amalfi Coast, home of Limoncello! (more on that later). Beautiful Positano is just how you would imagine an Italian beach and coastal holiday spot to be - cashed up holidaymakers relaxing on deck chairs on the pebbled beach in the sunshine, locals chatting loudly in the outside terraces of the cafes opposite, tiny stores selling everything 'lemon', clothing stores dotted around the area selling delicate, breezy pastel coloured shirts, skirts and scarves, and restaurants serving up seafood and vino - ahhh. Take a walk through the winding lanes leading you to more hidden shops - antiques, art, bags, shoes. Oh, and bring lots of cashola!
9. LIMONCELLO.
A fantastic treat when visiting Amalfi is the locally made lemon liqure. This stuff has a real kick to it, so the best way to enjoy Limoncello on a hot day is mixed with cold lemonade and lots of ice! Perfect!
10. LACK OF TOURIST HOARDS.
Probably scared away by the 'lonely planet' warnings of bag snatchers and Camorra. But if you stay alert as you would when visiting any big city and don't take silly chances, like carrying around a thousand dollar SLR or flashing your iPhone, you will be fine. Naples is great for the lack of the hords of tourists you encounter in Rome or Florence. You are completley immersed in the culture runing free with the locals and get to experience the REAL Italy.
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